The structures of the Rock-hewn Churches of Lalibela could have proudly occupied the first place as one of the wonders of this planet, earth.
For the long eight hundred years of their existence at Lalibela, hundreds of thousands of people, as an act of religious devotion, travel to where these sacred rock-hewn structures or churches stand. The pilgrimage which takes place every year during Christmas and Epiphany celebrations is the earnest desire of all Ethiopian Orthodox Church followers and others who aspire to witness, admire and enjoy the unparalleled architectural beauty therein.
These grand events spread an aura of holiness about the Rock-hewn Churches which beckon numerous people from around the world for tourist attraction and a pilgrimage destination. They are among the best in Africa and equally competent on the global standard.
The tradition in Ethiopia, as it is often the same in other countries, lays solid ground for the spiritual and cultural conveniences. It is handing from one generation to the next, customs opinions and beliefs in which the churches of Lalibela, owing to what they have been doing for the last eight hundred years, are entitled to claim the lion’s share in their magnificent venture with a definite aim.
Surprisingly, without uttering a single word, they enunciate their worth and what they have hoarded during their long existence to their admirers. Through the years, they have observed innumerable souls going in and out their doors; kings, prominent figures, the poor and the rich, males and females have been paying homage to them. All the holidays celebrated in their vicinity single them out as the most revered architecturally-dignified sites in Ethiopia. They enjoy deep respect from the worshipers and are regarded as sacred. Each believer owes them these qualities with great respect.
The history of the site is remarkably soaked into the Ethiopian Orthodox Christian tradition and unique ecclesiastical architecture. The churches do not indicate any sign that they were constructed just like any other structures. These churches were born of a perfect edifice in the minds of masons and those involved in the construction. Their design and the complex architectural beauty can be the same as, if not better than that of the Incas’ and the Aztecs’ astounding structures, the civilized ancient nations since time immemorial.
These awe-inspiring churches are the results of the craftsmanship of the highest order ever existed. One finds it rather difficult to reconcile the architectural excellence and the time when they were constructed. Legend has it that King Lalibela was taken to heaven where God instructed him to go back to the earth and build the churches. King Lalibela, in his eagerness to assume his responsibility, soon returned to mortal existence and summoned all the masons, carpenters, and others under his dominion to embark on the divine-directed holy project right away.
The tale further goes that while the construction was underway, it was with great speed because the angels continued the work at night. The scoffers were soon silenced when they beheld the famous towering edifice, Bete Medhanialem, which seemed to be of superhuman involvement in the scale and workmanship in its creation, fully emerged with its full magnificence.
The remaining structures, too, were accorded no less focus in their construction work. All of them are connected by a network of winding paths, tunnel, and narrow passageways. The writer believes that the pilgrims and the tourists have to go through all these if they wish to have the full picture without omitting anything adhering to the importance and the beauty of the churches.
Lalibela, the town where these churches stand, is a place of unparalleled fascination and particularly during religious celebrations. It is scarcely seen against a horizon dominated by Mount Abune Yosef. The town used to be called Roha, now it bears the name of King Lalibela. Tradition confirms that the town of Lalibela was founded in the 6th century AD as part of the expansion of the Christian Axumite Empire; this earnestly depicts that not all places in north Ethiopia were Christian; the great and uncompromising enthusiasm of the kings to expand Christianity was beyond measure.
As part of the development of Lalibela town, the construction of the Rock-hewn Churches and the subsequent development of the town is traditionally attributed to King Lalibela of the Zagwe Dynasty. He established his capital at Roha and transformed it into the symbolic stronghold of a theocratic dynasty. During his reign, he sought the intervention of God in the government administration and to exercise divine power as the order of the day.
Historical evidence shows that Lalibela was founded and served as a political and religious center. The churches that emerged in the wake of the king coming to power, the town rose from stupor due to the construction of the Rock-hewn Churches. The edifices, owing to their architectural excellence and being the hub of political and religious activities, the money they generate through tourism promotes the national investment programs for development.
Hundreds of thousands of visitors streaming to the site from far and wide enhance this very purpose through the money they spend for the use of products and services rendered to them during their stay in the area. The tangibility of the situation is dependent on how much the government puts adequate efforts to make the area more clean, attractive, conducive and pleasant to the visitors. To gain the deserving benefits out of Lalibela Churches, everything necessary should be accomplished to create conducive circumstances and pleasant environment to assist the tourists and the pilgrims to access every amenity available there.
Such proactive preparation makes life easy or pleasant for all who happen to stay at the site for some days. Procrastination in accomplishing things should be avoided. The churches, although due to lack of maintenance for many centuries appear old, their beauty still commands the admiration of the abounding fans in the country and around the world. They stand firm where they were originally planted through the years while humans, their creators, and admirers, are whisked one by one by the formidable might of death.
To the astonishment of the Lalibela Churches, humans pride themselves on title deeds of temporary ownership; but the edifices remain in their immovable position and watch humans as they come and go. When it comes to Lalibela Churches, time does not count at all; it is always ‘now’ with them; it is not yesterday or tomorrow. Events pass sequentially in front of these churches. Yet, they ponder over every incidence but remain spectators of the human play on the stage of time.
Lalibela town is singularly noted for embodying the unique church; previously it had not benefited much from them. It did not qualify international standards to attract tourists as required. But currently, it is a major pilgrimage site and tourist attraction. It is also the urban center that is expanding at a significant rate.
Moreover, the designation of the Rock-hewn Churches of Lalibela as a World Heritage site has attracted a large number of international visitors. This is more pronounced during Christmas and Epiphany festivals, which celebrate the birth and baptism of Jesus Christ respectively in the Christian tradition. The increased number of visitors has led to the subsequent substantial growth of the urban population, due to the increased development potential. This impacts the site and creates numerous conservation challenges.
Therefore, both the town and the Rock-hewn Churches contribute to the fast development of the town and the town dwellers. As the number of tourists increases the town thrives, hotels get busy, jobless young people get employment and the parents get relieved because their children become self-sufficient. This issue, more or less, decreases the burden of the government. The tale of the Rock-hewn Churches of Lalibela is not so simple to be concluded in such a narrow space and time. This is just the tip of the iceberg.
The structures are the pride of Ethiopia, the brilliance of Lalibela!
The Ethiopian Herald Friday 27 December 2019
BY JOSEPH SOBOKA
