Abuna Yemata Guh: A church with an incredible site, test of faith

COMPILED BY STAFF REPORTER

The sun tries to creep in around the shoddy wooden doors, to no avail. Immediately outside the cave, the sun shines brightly, reflecting off the massive, orange sandstone cliffs.

But head inside, and the rest of the world falls away, and you are left in the pitch black, barely illuminated by the flickering of dimly lit candles, wrote a foreign visitor who got a chance to visit the stony, hidden high in the sandstone cliffs and magnificent church, Abuna Yemata Guh Church.

Abuna Yemata Guh, which is located in the northern part of Ethiopia, Tigray State, was built in honors of one of the Nine Saints of the Ethiopian Church, Abuna Yemata, in recognition of his work in helping to spread of Christianity around the country during the late 5th Century.

Inaccessible for centuries, the site places undisturbed due to its remote location, visited only by wandering monks and devout Christians. This seclusion allowed much of the artwork found inside to remain in near pristine condition.

Abuna Yemata Guh is considered one of the best preserved monolithic churches in Ethiopia.

As the legend goes and the surrounding people state, the rock-hewn church was carved by and named after Father Yemata during the fifth century.

It is not known why he chose such a remote location, however historical accounts from the time report widespread persecution of Ethiopians of the then Christian minority, so many speculate he was evading enemies and capture.

Others claim that Yemata was seeking solitude and isolation from the world, seeking a place of meditation and reflection, in the hopes of achieving true divinity.

Either way, his rock-hewn masterpiece has provided a unique opportunity for Ethiopian Christians to demonstrate their commitment to their faith in epic fashion.

At Abuna Yemata Guh, facing with risky and thrilling experience is common practice for a few dedicated priests. The monolithic place of worship is said to be the world’s most inaccessible and dangerous church, reachable only by a 45-minute ascent.

The journey has cliff faces to scale, rickety bridges to cross, and narrow ledges to traverse. After crossing through the valley that underlies the church, you must ascend the half-mile-high sandstone pinnacle, searching for rare footholds to avoid the long drop.

Adding to the general sense of dread, the route passes by an open-air tomb filled with the skeletal remains of deceased priests (although it is said that none of the priests died from falling off the cliff).

If the intense climb and the gorgeous view of the valley below are not enough to take your breath away, the interior of the church surely will. The cave’s ceiling is covered by two beautiful frescoes, featuring intricate patterns, religious imagery, and the faces of nine of the twelve apostles of Christ.

The church also contains an Orthodox Bible with vibrant, colorful sheets made of goatskin. Abuna Yemata Church is so sacred that some Ethiopian parents even risk bringing their babies all the way to the top of the cliff to have them baptized there.

The paintings found within the church date back to the 15th century and feature intricate patterns, religious iconography and depictions of nine of the twelve apostles.

They were painted with materials derived from flowers, minerals and fruits found within the local area.

Hidden within the church, there lies a set of sacred scrolls, with colors and drawings animating the words on the page.

The Ethiopian Herald 13  February 2021

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