During the reign of Emperor Fasilides, a significant architectural and cultural transformation took place in Gondar, marking the beginning of what is often referred to as the Gondarian period. Throughout this era, which saw the rule of 18 emperors, a remarkable 44 churches were constructed, earning Gondar the illustrious title of “The Country of 44 Arks.” This moniker reflects the city’s rich religious heritage and its status as a hub of Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity. Each of these churches stands as a testament to the architectural ingenuity and devout faith of the era, contributing to Gondar’s reputation as a historical and spiritual center in Ethiopia.
Among these churches, “Negeste Adbarat Debre Birhan Kidest Silase,” literally translated as “A Saint Trinity and Mountain of Light,” stands out as one of the most stunning and significant historical and tourist sites in Gondar. Constructed in the 17th century by Emperor Eyasu the Great, this church is a prime example of the architectural and cultural achievements of the Gondarian period. Its intricate design and historical importance make it a key destination for visitors.
This church is distinguished by its unique architectural design. It does not only reflect the religious devotion of its time but also serves as a testament to the rich heritage of Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity and the enduring legacy of Gondar’s emperors.
The church is constructed from pure lime and hewn stones. The churchyard is divided into three parts. The first part, known as “Tire Kab,” was built during the reign of Emperor Yohannes IV. This section was designed to accommodate individuals who, for various reasons, cannot enter the church. It provides a space for them to pray and participate in religious activities.
In the second part, located adjacent to “Tire Kab,” stands a large fence constructed by Emperor Eyasu the Great. Within this section, there is a building featuring a lion design. This architectural structure symbolizes the forehead, eyes, ears, and legs of a lion, serving as both the entrance and exit. The door is adorned with the shapes of saints.
Legend has it that in the 19th century, during the Sudanese invasion, the Mahdists attempted to attack the church. However, they were unable to penetrate the second part. According to elders, the Mahdists were thwarted by an angelic arc on the door, which took the form of a bee
As a result, this church in Gondar remains the only one undamaged by either the British or Mahdist invasions.
Behind the lion’s design, there are three crosses, typically known as Gondar’s, Aksum’s, and Lalibela’s crosses, placed by the order of Emperor Eyasu the Great. After entering this gate, there are twelve egg-shaped towers, which illustrate the twelve apostles, the twelve tribes of Israel, and the months of the year. These 12 towers have served as a living place for monks for several years.
In the third part, the Debre Birhan Kidest Silase stands out with its 9-meter height and 29-meter length. Unlike the typical circular layout of Ethiopian Orthodox churches, Debre Birhan Kidest Silase is designed in the shape of Noah’s Ark, giving it a distinctive rectangular form.
An intriguing feature of the church is the ostrich egg placed on its ridge. This serves as a symbolic illustration of the nature of ostrich hatching. Ostriches exhibit a unique way of incubating their eggs, involving a combination of nesting behavior to the incubating process. Both parents take turns incubating the eggs: the female during the day, using her lighter coloration to blend in with the environment and avoid predators, and the male at night, using his darker feathers to remain less visible in low-light conditions. This cooperative breeding strategy, with both parents involved in incubation and protection, significantly increases the chances of survival for the ostrich eggs and chicks.
Therefore, the Ethiopian Orthodox Church places the ostrich egg on the ridge to illustrate that human beings cannot survive without the protection and watchfulness of God. This symbol reinforces the belief that just as ostrich parents diligently care for their eggs, God provides constant care and protection for His creation.
Inside the church, every inch of the walls is covered with glowing representations of biblical verses, beautifully painted. According to the church history, book “Negeste Adbarat Debre Birhan Kidest Silase,” these paintings clearly reflect the Gondarian period folklore art. This period’s paintings are characterized by the depiction of emperors about religious activities and the portrayal of Ethiopian saints dating back to the Axum Empire. The pictures are framed with intricate designs of flowers and crosses.
The artwork in the church was created by Aba Hailemeskel Woldu, who meticulously integrated Ethiopian customs with the histories of the Old and New Testaments. His paintings were designed to be easily understood and appreciated by the congregation, enhancing the visual storytelling within the church. Through his careful consideration of cultural and religious contexts, Aba Hailemeskel Woldu has ensured that the artwork serves as a powerful and accessible medium for conveying spiritual narratives
In the eastern part of the church, there are paintings depicting the 7th Heaven, also known as the Throne of the Holy Trinity. The western side illustrates the manifestation of the Virgin Mary. The northern part portrays the story of the Virgin Mary, beginning with her parents and her birth, along with paintings of other saints. The southern side features the story of Jesus Christ, including his baptism, the devil’s attempts to challenge him, the manifestation of his divinity on Mount Tabor, and scenes of his teachings. These artworks collectively enrich the church’s visual narrative, offering a comprehensive portrayal of key religious figures and events.
In addition to the paintings the church also possesses several and aged utensils and liturgical equipment. This equipment is classified into two; “yezema mesarya” (song equipment) which contains types of equipment used for songs and paintings of utensils and equipment such as “kebero” (large drum), “Tsinatin” (sistra), “Mekuamiya” (standing stick) “Mesenko” (one-string violin),
The second classification of utensils and equipment is known as “website mekdes megelgeya” (things used for the usage of church) this includes equipment out of song equipment.
Debre Birhan Kidest Silase is one of the most beautiful and significant tourist sites in Gondar. Most visitors explore Debre Birhan Selassie as part of a broader tour of the city, which typically includes visits to Fasil Ghebbi and Fasilides’ Bath. Miss it if you come to Gondar!
BY DAGMAWIT HADGU
THE ETHIOPIAN HERALD WEDNESDAY 12 JUNE 2024
